Most sprinkler problems fall into a handful of categories, and many can be narrowed down before anyone comes out to look at them. Here's a practical guide to what you're seeing and what it usually means.
Broken or uneven spray pattern
A head spraying in an arc instead of a full circle, spraying sideways, or producing a weak mist instead of a clean stream is usually a head or nozzle problem. Nozzles clog with debris or crack over time, and head bodies can crack from foot traffic or mower strikes. This is typically the easiest repair — a head or nozzle swap.
Zone that won't shut off
If a zone keeps running after the controller tells it to stop, the valve is stuck open. This is almost always a valve diaphragm failure — the rubber diaphragm that seats when the solenoid closes has torn, hardened, or been fouled with debris. Diaphragms are inexpensive and the repair is straightforward if you can locate the valve box.
Zone that won't turn on
A zone that the controller calls for but doesn't activate could be a failed solenoid, a broken wire between the controller and valve, or a valve stuck closed with debris in the port. Check your controller for any error messages first. Then listen near the valve box when you activate the zone — if you hear a click but no water flows, the solenoid is likely working and the valve itself is stuck.
Weak pressure across a zone
Low pressure on a specific zone usually points to a leak in the lateral line feeding it, a stuck-partially-open valve, or too many heads on a single zone. Low pressure system-wide is different — that's usually a mainline or backflow issue, or a supply pressure drop from your water provider.
If you're not sure which category your problem falls into, call us and describe what you're seeing. We can usually help you narrow it down over the phone before recommending a visit.